In the previous article, we learned that any adjustment or alteration to dyed hair is considered a color correction. Each case is completely unique, and so is the process to follow. This is formulated according to the texture and density of the hair, as well as its physical condition. It is always important to do the strand test.
There are four basic types of color corrections: too light, too dark, too warm, and too cool.
Very light: The first step is to apply a pre-pigmentation to the bleached part, returning the tones that were removed to leave it blonde. Reddish pigments are the ones that predominate in dark tones, and these are the ones that are removed when we want a very light, intense blonde without copper tones. A pre-pigmentation will make the new dark tone last longer and not become opaque. The intensity of the pre-pigment will depend on the desired tone.
Too dark: A color can become too dark when the hair is very porous and sometimes the tone appears darker than desired. This can be corrected immediately at the shampoo bowl with special products to remove a deep tone. If we want to lighten two shades, often a color remover from the same brand as the color line we use will do the job, even if we have to apply it more than once. But if we want to remove red or black tones (the nightmare of every colorist), we have to be realistic and make sure it is possible; most of the time it is not, especially if the tones are very saturated. It is important for the client to understand that this process takes time and several sessions. However, the transitions are very beautiful, and the client will enjoy a range of reddish browns and chocolates until they reach the desired tone. The only way to remove these tones is with bleaching, if the hair can resist it. Otherwise, it is better to say NO.
Too cool: This correction is most common in natural blonde hair that only needs to be lightened by about three shades. Tap water, swimming pools, shampoos with pigments and color baths with ashy tones give the hair a very cold and dull appearance. With a clarifying shampoo, this can be solved in most cases; the colorist must select a tone that seals the cuticle, leaving the tone silky and shiny.
Too Warm: This is the most common correction in a salon and is the daily process of every stylist, especially with Hispanic clients. As we said, dark shades have a lot of red and orange pigment, depending on the depth. When bleaching, we need to make sure that all those shades come out of the hair, otherwise the residual pigment will dominate and no matter what toner we use, it will always look brassy. We see this a lot when a client applies high-tone color at home to lighten her hair and it turns orange. Only a color specialist knows how to lighten hair to achieve a natural tone without compromising its integrity.
Follow all the instructions of a professional and, before changing the tone, make a consultation, which should be free.
Comments